Buzz Rickson's BR80661 AN6552 "American Sportswear Co." Jacket Dark Brown

Description

The Buzz Rickson's BR80661 is a meticulous reproduction of the Type AN6552, the successor to the M-422A and a rare transitional flight jacket jointly adopted by the U.S. Navy and the U.S. Army Air Forces between 1944 and 1947. While visually almost identical to the M-422A, the AN6552 reflects an important historical shift: its designation incorporates the initials of both branches (Army-Navy), and instead of the traditional 'USN' stencil, this model carries the 'US' marking beneath the collar, indicating its shared operational role.

This reproduction is based on a 1944 contract supplied by American Sportswear Co., one of the wartime manufacturers known for producing AN6552 jackets with a distinctive bright red rayon twill lining. The vivid interior creates a striking contrast against the dark brown shell while remaining fully faithful to original military specifications.

The outer shell is crafted from carefully selected thick vegetable-tanned goatskin, finished through a layered aniline dye and hand-waxed process. A lighter base tone is applied first, followed by additional dye layers to build depth and tonal nuance. In the final stage, artisans hand-rub heated wax into the surface, allowing subtle undertones to reveal themselves under sunlight. The result is a deep, dimensional brown with evolving patina, where the natural vertical grain of the goat hide becomes increasingly expressive with wear.

The hardware marks one of the key updates from its predecessor. While the M-422A used a nickel-finished zipper, the AN6552 features a MIL-SPEC brass zipper with a black oxide finish, offering greater durability and a more subdued military aesthetic. The jacket is also equipped with U.S. Government Department of Defense specification snap buttons, MIL-SPEC urea buttons, and robust 100% wool knit cuffs and waistband for warmth, structure, and long-term resilience.

The collar is constructed from dense 1/2-inch genuine shearling sheep mouton, providing exceptional…